Gucci

The Label Sensual, luxurious with rock- and-roll edges. Under Tom Ford, Gucci became the preferred wardrobe for international high-powered women and men who believe that sex appeal is an important part of social interaction. The Look Slithery fabrics, body- conscious cuts, and bold accessories that frankly flaunt their provenance. The Designer Most people, never mind fashion fans, would have to have spent the last fifteen years in another solar system to be unaware of the American designer Tom Ford’s transformation of a dormant Italian luxury brand into a billion-dollar empire of interlocking Gs. Along with Gucci’s CEO Domenico De Sole, Ford effected an astonishingly successful turnaround in a relatively short time. He started in 1990, but the breakout collection was fall 1995, where his brightly colored fitted coats over satin shirts (unbuttoned to show cleavage) and hip-hugger pants pretty much changed the way fashion looked overnight and established Ford as an international tastemaker—a role the good- looking former actor embraced enthusiastically (he once posed for an Absolut vodka ad with a bottle placed over his crotch). In 1999, the fashion world was riveted and entertained by the business battle royale that erupted when French luxury group LVMH tried to acquire Gucci; Ford feared that its CEO, Bernard Arnault, would diminish the creative and financial autonomy he and De Sole required. With Ford’s blessing, rival PPR triumphed, created the Gucci Group, and acquired Yves Saint Laurent (which Ford designed for a few years), Stella McCartney, and Alexander McQueen. But as Ford’s contract ended, he and De Sole battled with PPR’s executives, and both left in April 2004. Ford launched several new projects (he styled a Vanity Fair Hollywood issue, putting himself on the cover with a nude Scarlett Johansson) and signing a deal for product development with Estée Lauder. Replacing him wasn’t easy; Alessandra Fachinetti, the first successor, quit after two seasons and was replaced by another in- house designer, Frida Ginanni, whose collections are selling well but have yet to receive Ford-level raves.